Upper Slaughter, The Cotswolds: Complete Guide & Things To Do

Upper Slaughter tends to get overlooked in favour of its more famous neighbours, Bourton-on-the-Water and even its own twin village, Lower Slaughter. That’s a shame, because this is about as quintessentially Cotswolds as villages get, and it comes with one of the more remarkable stories in the whole region.

Upper Slaughter is one of only 14 villages in England and Wales confirmed to have lost no men in either World War, making it what’s known as a “doubly thankful” village. It was even bombed heavily in February 1944 without a single fatality.

This guide covers everything you need for a visit: the best things to do, where to stay, where to eat, and my own tips for getting the most out of your time here.

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At a glance

Map of Upper Slaughter

Use my map below to see exactly where everything in this guide sits, from the village square to Lords of the Manor.

Why visit Upper Slaughter

Upper Slaughter has barely changed since its Cotswold stone almshouses were rebuilt in 1906, and that lack of development is exactly what makes it worth seeking out.

It’s the kind of place where sitting on a bench in the square and watching the world go by counts as a perfectly good use of an afternoon.

Its wartime history adds real depth too. Few villages this size carry a story as striking as surviving a heavy bombing raid without a single casualty.

Best time to visit Upper Slaughter

Upper Slaughter suits a visit at any time of year, though a warm day makes the ford and the shallow River Eye especially appealing if you want to paddle. 

Visit early or outside peak summer weekends to have the village largely to yourself.

How to get to Upper Slaughter

Upper Slaughter sits close to the A429, making it around two hours from London by car, though the lanes leading into the village itself are narrow. If you approach from the north, be prepared to drive through the ford.

Public transport is difficult. Buses run from Cheltenham, Kingham and Moreton-in-Marsh to Bourton-on-the-Water, leaving around three miles still to cover, either by taxi or on foot, which takes roughly 45 minutes in good weather.

How to get around and parking in Upper Slaughter

There’s some street parking in the village square, though it fills up quickly, particularly in summer, so arrive early if you’re planning to park here.

A popular alternative is to park in Bourton-on-the-Water and walk to both Lower and Upper Slaughter.

5 things to do in Upper Slaughter

1. Simply spend time in the village 🏘️

Upper Slaughter’s almshouses were rebuilt in 1906, and there’s been no new building work in the village since.

Take a seat in the square, wander the quiet streets, and look out for the Grade II listed Old School House by the church. The smaller footbridge to the left of the main bridge is one of the best photo spots in the village.

If the weather’s warm, it’s worth taking your shoes off for a paddle in the ford, a favourite spot for local families in summer.

2. Step inside St Peter’s Church ⛪

This Anglican church dates back to the 12th century and holds a striking Thomas Denny stained glass piece, alongside older, highly detailed stained glass toward the back of the building.

Denny’s work also appears in Gloucester Cathedral, if you want to compare the two.

3. Dine or take afternoon tea at Lords of the Manor 🍽️

Much of Upper Slaughter’s appeal centres on its only hotel. The Atrium offers a tasting menu across just 14 covers, while the Dining Room serves a more relaxed but still excellent seasonal menu.

Afternoon tea is available on the terrace or in the gardens when the weather allows.

4. Discover the Norman castle mound 🏰

North of the village, Castle Mound holds the ruins of a Norman motte and bailey, thought to have been used for defence during the civil war of 1139 to 1153. Though archaeological finds suggest the site was more likely inhabited during the 12th and 13th centuries.

It’s a good spot for a summer picnic as well as a bit of history.

5. Walk to Lower Slaughter or Bourton-on-the-Water 🚶

A gate beside Lords of the Manor leads onto the Warden’s Way, an easy walk across the meadow into Lower Slaughter, or along the banks of the River Eye if you head the other way across the meadow.

For a longer day out, walk to Bourton-on-the-Water and pick up the Heart of England Way back through Lower Slaughter, or continue on to Stow-on-the-Wold for a four-mile walk worth rewarding with a pub lunch at the other end.

A brief history of Upper Slaughter

Recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086, Upper Slaughter takes its name from the Old English “slothre,” meaning a muddy place, rather than anything more dramatic. 

The village has also featured as a filming location for Father Brown, Our Mutual Friend, Interceptor and The Sailor’s Return, thanks to how little it has changed over the past century.

Its most remarkable claim, though, is its status as one of only 14 “doubly thankful” villages in England and Wales, having lost no residents in either World War.

That’s despite being hit by around 2,000 incendiary bombs during a Luftwaffe raid on 4 February 1944, an attack the village survived without a single fatality.

Where to stay in Upper Slaughter

Quick picks

1. Lords of the Manor

This 17th-century country house has been a hotel since the 1960s and is my favourite of the three hotels covered in this guide. 

Its 26 individually decorated rooms mix period character with modern comfort, set across eight acres of manicured gardens, and dogs are welcome too.

Check the latest prices and availability.

2. The Slaughters Manor House

A short walk away in Lower Slaughter, this stately country house turned boutique hotel offers 19 individually decorated rooms across the main building and coach house, along with a well-regarded restaurant of its own.

Check the latest prices and availability.

3. The Slaughters Country Inn

Also in Lower Slaughter, this country inn pairs 25 boutique bedrooms and six self-catering cottages with old-world touches like roll-top baths and roaring log fires. 

Check the latest prices and availability.

Where to eat in Upper Slaughter

There’s no standalone pub in Upper Slaughter, and dining options are limited to Lords of the Manor and its nearby neighbours in Lower Slaughter.

For more choice, Bourton-on-the-Water is a short drive or walk away.

Quick picks

1. The Atrium at Lords of the Manor

Set within Lords of the Manor, the Atrium serves an eight-course tasting menu across just 14 covers and currently holds 4 AA Rosettes. Book well ahead, since the small covers mean tables go quickly.

2. The Dining Room at Lords of the Manor

Less formal than the Atrium but still excellent, the Dining Room focuses on locally sourced, seasonal dishes and is a good option for a Sunday roast, a sharing platter on the terrace, or a classic afternoon tea.

3. The Slaughters Manor House

A short walk from Upper Slaughter, this restaurant serves regionally sourced, freshly foraged dishes in a contemporary orangery setting.

Afternoon tea is available in the Manor, the grounds, or as a picnic basket to take with you.

Suggested itinerary for Upper Slaughter

Start in the village square, taking in the almshouses and the Old School House before stepping inside St Peter’s Church to see the Thomas Denny stained glass. 

rom there, walk north to Castle Mound for a look at the Norman ruins, ideally with a picnic if the weather’s good.

Round off the visit with lunch, afternoon tea, or dinner at Lords of the Manor, or walk the meadow path to Lower Slaughter to combine both villages in a single afternoon.

Insider tips for visiting Upper Slaughter

FAQs

Why is Upper Slaughter called a “doubly thankful” village?

Upper Slaughter lost no residents in either World War, making it one of only 14 villages in England and Wales to hold this status. It was heavily bombed in February 1944 without a single fatality.

Is there a pub in Upper Slaughter?

No, there’s no standalone pub in the village. Lords of the Manor is the only place to eat, with more choice a short walk or drive away in Bourton-on-the-Water.

Where can I park in Upper Slaughter?

There’s limited street parking in the village square, which fills up quickly in summer. You can try to park in Lower Slaughter, or on the road between the two villages. Otherwise a safer bet is to park in Bourton-on-the-Water and embark on a picturesque 40 minute walk.

How far is Upper Slaughter from Bourton-on-the-Water?

It’s around 3 to 3.5 miles, an easy drive or a roughly 40 minute walk.

Where else to visit

Upper Slaughter sits within easy reach of some of the best-known villages in the Cotswolds. Lower Slaughter is a short walk away, and Bourton-on-the-Water and Stow-on-the-Wold are both within comfortable reach too.

Continue planning your trip

Upper Slaughter may be tiny, but between its untouched character and its remarkable wartime history, it’s well worth the detour. 

For more inspiration, read my full guide to visiting the Cotswolds, or explore my guides to Lower Slaughter, Bourton-on-the-Water, and Stow-on-the-Wold.